Industrial Organic?

On: The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan. Chapters 8-9.

In these two chapters, Pollan explores the meaning of "organic" and the process that has evolved from a grass-roots food system to just another massive industry. He begins by visiting Joel Saltin, a self-proclaimed "grass farmer" who owns and operates his own small scale farm with a basis on rotational grazing.Saltin prides himsef on the wellbeing of his land and animals and the quality of his products. Although not technically "organic" by USDA standards, Saltin's farm may be a closer fit to how you would imagine an organic operation would run, compared to the "industrial organic" that is introduced in the following chapter.
After a brief discussion of the misleading labels on many grocery store produce and animal products (aka free-range, cage-free, grass-fed, etc...), Pollan brings to notice the introduction of "organic" into mainstream supermarkets, and the morality behind the idea. Doesn't industrialization of the market defeat the original purpose of "organic" products being a wholesome, sustainable alternative to the current food production system? Similarly, Pollan asks, "Is industrial organic ultimately a contradiction of terms?" (161). He uncovers the vague regulation of USDA Certified Organic products, which few people know includes the lawful use of many synthetics including xanthan gum and ascorbic gum. Many industrial organic dairies raise their cows on dry lots where they are fed certified organic grain (not treated with chemical pesticides), but have limited access to green pasture, a picture commonly associated with organically raised products. Because the use of antibiotics is not allowed, organic producers commonly find themselves in a pinch to maintain a healthy herd, which some regulate by keeping their animals in close confines.
Pollans last endeavor was a bit of a criticism (in my eyes) of the baby lattuce industry. One important point he makes is that the caloric trade-off when transporting lettuce cross-country doesn't make much sense: "A one pound box of prewashed lettuce contains 80 calories of food energy...growing, chilling, washing, packaging and transporting that box of organic salad to a plate on the East Coast takes more than 4,600 calories of fossil fuel energy, or 57 calories of fossil fuel energy for every calorie of food" (167). Does transporting something that has practically no nutritional value across the country, just so we can eat salad in the middle of winter make any sense? I didn't think so either.